Tuesday, 27 December 2011
IN TIME FOR NEW YEAR`S PARTY!!!!
2. Now that we have drawn the basic blouse block (no seam allowances, no ease) then we make the drawing of the blouse. We start at the waist line. In this case, this is a size 40 blouse, I marked 9 cms from the waist up, to make the cut under the bust.
Then, I went up to the neck and made a mark: 7 cms from center front, and continue with a line that touches the scyce and goes down 2cms down at the side seam.
At the back, I marked 2 cms down the side seam, and trace a line that touched the under-bust mark. at about 7 cmas from center back. We want a very open back!!!!
4- We close the side seam bust dart, and open only one of the lines that we have already cut going to the neck, and measure the opening from point A to B. We take that measurement, and divided in 3 parts, and each part will open up in each one of the 3 cuttings. (Ej: if from A to B we have 9 cms, we divided into 3, and that gives us 3 cms, so, we open 3 cms in each of our cuttings.
Now that the side seam bust dart is close, we can put together the front and the back of our blouse, and also we can cut off the under bust band (in this case it is 9cms wide)
5. We can see now how I divided the space that opened after I close the side bust dart.
Please look at the center front, and mark with D at the under bust cut. From D, mark 2 cms up, and make a small arc, that you are going to cut off with the scissors. The 5 cms mark, you have to transfer to that arc also.
Tape toguether the back and the front blouse, and close the back dart. Now you can cut the different parts, and you have the pattern nearly finish!!
6. Now that the pattern is ready, we can transfer it to a pice of paper that is big enough to make the pattern complete, because so far, we have been working only half of the pattern, and we need to make it double, by folding the paper in the center front of the transfer drawing. We ONLY need to draw the top part of the blouse, NOT the underbust piece.
Remember to measure and mark. In my pattern, the cut under the bust, should end up measuring 34 cms after gathering. The gathering has to be done where we have the 2 marks, and it says: 8 cms. But, the total measurement is 34cms. (for size 40)
7. Let us pretend that: that triangular piece of paper is the fabric already folded . Now we can see how we are going to cut our blouse. We put the pattern piece of the top, right at the top, leaving enough space to add 1.5 cms. seam allowance all around.
Then, we add the collar that is: the size of the complete neck on the basic block (6+12=18 in this case) and we mark in the center the 7cms of our neck size pattern. 7+7=14. So the total neck size is the wide and the neck is going to be 5 cms tall, so we put 6+6=12. To all of our neck measurement, we add 1.5 cms all around.
For the underbust-waist-hip band, we are going to cut with the rest of the fabric 2 pieces that are 30cms high with all the fabric width. Remember that you are cutting everything in 2, because the piece is already folded.
8. Now that we have used Hollieseamallowance gadget to cut our blouse, we take the 2 bands of fabric that are going to be used on the waist-hip band, and we cut one of them in Half vertically, and we put one on each side of the long band, and join them as you can see here. Now we have a long band, and we mark the center, and the under bust measurement of the pattern. (in this case 34cms on each side of the center, because that is where the blouse finishes.
Tomorrow, we will continue with the sewing instructions!!!! I will wait for you right here, in the beautifull rainforest!!!!
Posted by Adriana Orozco at 20:04